Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

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We don’t hatch basic. Neither should you.

Every chick's a critic. Better make it a good one.

Grab the exact gear you need, or get a CluckKit™ and let us do the thinking—either way, your flock wins.

Because mediocre gear doesn't survive the coop—or Clancy.

It’s not just mugs and tees—it’s emotional support merch for people who LOVE landrace chickens.

Treat yourself. The chickens already did.

Chickens with backbone. Keepers with taste.

Education Hub

Hatching Shipped Eggs

Real expectations, simple steps, and clear policies so your hatch is about chicks, not chaos.

What We Ship (and When)

What We Ship (and When)

We offer hatching eggs from our preservation lines seasonally which is generally April through August. We don’t ship adults: welfare first. Be the first to know when preorder dates open up by tapping the "Peck At Me When Available" button on the breed product page you are interested in.

Breeds (season-dependent): Swedish Flower Hen, Hedemora, Swedish Black Hen, Ölandsk Dwarf, Shetland Hen, Icelandic. (Orust: coming.)

Where from: NW Ohio. We time shipments early week to avoid weekend holds.

We offer hatching eggs from our preservation lines seasonally which is generally April through August. We don’t ship adults: welfare first. Be the first to know when preorder dates open up by tapping the "Peck At Me When Available" button on the breed product page you are interested in.

Breeds (season-dependent): Swedish Flower Hen, Hedemora, Swedish Black Hen, Ölandsk Dwarf, Shetland Hen, Icelandic. (Orust: coming.)

Where from: NW Ohio. We time shipments early week to avoid weekend holds.

Five minutes here will save chicks later. Start with our guides, then skim the common fails and what’s unique about landrace eggs.  

Clancy Crowed It: “Learn it once. Hatch calm ever after.”

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Before Your Eggs Arrive (Prep Checklist)

Get the incubator right first—hatch goes smoother, stress goes down.


  • Run it 24 hours to confirm steady temp & humidity (no big swings).

  • Settings (forced-air): 99.5°F (37.5°C) and ~45–50% humidity baseline.

  • Calibrate/verify with a trusted thermometer & hygrometer (don’t trust one screen blindly).

  • Auto-turner OFF for shipped eggs (you won’t turn until Day 7).

  • Place the incubator away from drafts/sun/vents; stable room = stable hatch.

  • Power plan: surge protector/UPS if your area blips.

  • Brooder ready by Day 18: heat plate, draft-free box, water on a stand.

  • Keep a simple hatch log (temps, humidity, candling notes)—future you will thank you.

Incubator Basics (No-BS Settings)

  • Type: Forced-air is friendliest for beginners.

  • Temp: 99.5°F (37.5°C) forced-air. (Still-air: read at egg top, ~100–101°F.)

  • Humidity (Days 1–17): ~45–50% baseline; tweak by air-cell growth.

  • Turning: 3–5x/day (or auto-turner). Stop at Day 18.

  • Lockdown (18–21): ~65–70% humidity; do not open unless necessary.

  • Hatch timing: Usually Day 20–21; some landrace lines run a hair early/late.

Candle: Day 7 and 14 to confirm development/air-cell size. Pull obvious clears/quitters promptly and safely.

When Your Eggs Arrive

Unbox gently. Photograph box + eggs if damaged (see policy).


Rest 12–24 hours, pointy end down at room temp (68–72°F) to settle air cells.

Don’t wash eggs. Dry-wipe debris only.

Shipped-Egg Protocol (Air-Cell Smart)

Shipped eggs act differently. Treat air cells like gold.

Day 0 (arrival): Rest 12–24 hours, pointy end down at room temp (68–72°F).

Days 1–7 (incubating): Set upright in cartons, pointy end down. Do not turn during this period; keep movement minimal so air cells stabilize.

After Day 7 → Day 18: If air cells look stable at your Day-7 candle, begin gentle turning/tilting 3–5×/day while keeping eggs upright (or use an auto-turner on the lowest angle with eggs remaining upright in cartons/trays).

Lockdown (Day 18–21): Keep eggs upright in cartons, raise humidity to ~65–70%, stop turning, and keep the lid closed.

Saddled or detached air cells? Keep eggs upright the entire time. Start turning gently after Day 7 only if the cells look stable—delay longer if they don’t.

Expectation Check (Shipped vs. Local)

Even with excellent fertility, shipped eggs face postal handling, altitude, and temperature swings.


A solid shipped-egg hatch is often 30–60%.

Both extremes happen: it’s possible to have a 0% hatch after rough transit—and also possible to hit 100% when everything aligns.

Air-cell damage and early quits are common after rough trips.

Our job: healthy parent stock, careful packing, seasonal timing.

Your job: proper rest, stable incubator, no turning until Day 7, and disciplined lockdown.

Translation: We guarantee fertility at lay, not your final hatch count—too many variables live between our nest and your brooder.

Simple Candling Guide (What You’re Looking For)

Day 7:
Developing: clear spider-web veins and a dark embryo spot.

No visible development yet: looks mostly clear or evenly yellow. Mark and recheck at Day 10–12—do not assume infertility after incubation has begun.

Blood ring / obvious early quit: a red ring around the yolk area; remove promptly.

Day 14:
Developing: larger dark mass; air cell expanding at the blunt end.


No visible development by now: likely non-developing; many keepers remove at this point for safety, but use judgment and your notes.

Day 18 (before lockdown):
Final check; mark air cell outline. Stop turning, maintain lockdown conditions.

Key principle: After an egg has been incubated, you cannot confirm “infertile” by candling—only developing, non-developing, or early quitter (e.g., blood ring). Use air-cell growth and consistent rechecks to guide decisions.

Troubleshooting (Shipped Specific)

Rolling/detached air cells: Keep upright entire time; minimize movement; tilt gently.


Late/weak pips: Re-check temps; low temps delay, high temps rush and weaken.

Shrink-wrap risk: Low hatch humidity or opening during pip. Lock it down.

Assist or not? Beginners: default no. If you assist, know timing/anatomy and accept risks.

Our Packing & Policies (Read Before You Buy)

Packing: Foam/secure shippers, pointy-down orientation, labeled for handling.


Breakage on arrival: Email photos of box + eggs within 24 hours. We refund/credit broken eggs only (at our discretion).

Fertility vs. hatch: Eggs come from active, healthy pens. We don’t guarantee hatch rates (shipping/incubator variables).

Weather holds: We may pause or reschedule for extreme heat/cold.

Address/pickup: Use a secure address; Hold for Pickup at your PO is recommended where available.

Hatching Shipped Eggs — FAQ

We credit/replace only for eggs broken on arrival (photo within 24 hours). Hatch rates aren’t guaranteed due to shipping/incubator variables.

Up to ~7 days is best, pointy end down at ~50–60°F and ~50–70% humidity. Tilt daily if holding >2–3 days.

Start ~40–45% for shipped eggs, then adjust by air-cell growth. Every home environment is different.

Measure at the top of the eggs; target ~100–101°F. Rotate egg positions daily to avoid hot/cold spots.

Don’t wash. The cuticle protects the egg; dry-wipe debris only.

Usually no. If you assist, ensure the blood vessels are absorbed and timing is appropriate—high risk if done wrong.

Ask a Hatching Question

Unsure about air cells, humidity, or timing? Tell us your goals and climate—we’ll give a straight answer, no gatekeeping.