Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

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We don’t hatch basic. Neither should you.

Every chick's a critic. Better make it a good one.

Grab the exact gear you need, or get a CluckKit™ and let us do the thinking—either way, your flock wins.

Because mediocre gear doesn't survive the coop—or Clancy.

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Education Hub

Brooding Without The BS

A brooder guide that gets to the point before your chicks do.

A Real Guide to Raising Chicks That Make It Past Week Two

Welcome to the next step. You’ve got eggs in the incubator, or a box of peeping chaos on your porch, and now it’s your job to keep them alive.

Don’t panic. This isn’t about perfection. This is about what actually matters when brooding chicks in the real world, with real people who forget things, work weird hours, and maybe have ADHD.

If you're here for fluff and fairy lights, click out.
If you're here for clarity, science, and a little sass,keep scrolling.

🐥 What Is Brooding, Really?

Brooding is the stage where you replace the mama hen. That means:

  • Keeping chicks warm (but not too warm)

  • Giving them food and clean water

  • Keeping them clean and dry

  • Watching for health issues early

  • Surviving the chaos with your sanity intact

You don’t NEED a Pinterest brooder.
You need a setup that works for you and doesn’t kill chicks.

🧱 Your Brooder Setup (No BS Edition)

What You Need Why It Matters Notes
Safe bin or box Keeps chicks contained & safe Cardboard is okay short term, storage totes are better
Heat source Chicks can’t regulate temp Use a heat plate, not a bulb (more on that below)
Thermometer You’re not a heat lamp Surface + ambient temp both matter
Bedding Keeps them dry, controls smell Pine shavings > paper towels > no cedar
Feeder + waterer Chicks drown easily in bowls Use chick-safe equipment or DIY with marbles
Lid or screen Keeps out pets, prevents jumpers Wire preferred for airflow

 

🔥 Clancy Crowed It:
“If your brooder smells like a barn fire or a wet sock, fix it.”

🌡️ Heat: The #1 Place People Screw This Up

  • Ideal brooder temp: 95°F at chick level (not room temp)

  • Lower by ~5°F each week

  • Chicks should be able to move toward and away from heat

  • Heat plates > bulbs for safety, sleep, and sanity

    • No fire risk

    • Chicks sleep at night

    • They mimic mama hen better

Signs your chicks are too hot:
🥵 Panting, avoiding heat source, piling in corners

Signs they’re too cold:
🥶 Constant peeping, piling directly under heat, shivering

💧 Water, Feed, & Grit (Yes, Grit)

  • Water first. Always. Add electrolytes only if shipped or weak.

  • Use shallow waterers or marbles in a dish to prevent drowning

  • Feed: chick starter (non-medicated or medicated, your choice)

  • Grit: if you give anything besides feed (even dried herbs), they need chick grit

💩 Cleanliness Without Losing Your Mind

  • Spot clean daily: poop piles, wet shavings, crusty feeders

  • Full clean every 5–7 days or if it smells

  • Deep litter doesn't apply here—keep it dry and simple

  • Wear a mask if it’s dusty

🧠 What to Watch For (a.k.a. Chick Drama)

Symptom What It Might Mean What to Do
Pasty butt Stress, temp swings, poor hydration Soften gently with warm water, wipe clean, apply coconut oil
Lethargy Too hot, too cold, not drinking Check heat + water immediately
Splayed legs Slippery floor, weak chick Use leg hobble (vet wrap or band-aid)
Loud peeping Cold, hungry, stressed Watch behavior, adjust setup

📋 Brooder Setup Checklist

  •  Brooder container, 12–18” high

  •  Pine shavings or paper towels

  •  Heat plate or calibrated heat lamp

  •  Chick-safe feeder + waterer

  •  Chick starter feed

  •  Chick grit (if giving treats)

  •  Thermometer (ambient + surface)

  •  Access to a power source

  •  Optional: probiotic, ACV, wipes, gloves

🧠 The Bottom Line

Brooding doesn’t have to be overwhelming.
Chicks don’t need fancy—they need consistency.
And you need someone to tell you what actually matters.

So here it is:
Clean. Warm. Dry. Fed. Watched. That’s it.

 

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You Asked. We Hatched Answers.

Usually 4–6 weeks, depending on breed, room temp, and feather growth. Lower heat weekly and let them tell you when they’re done.

It’s a personal choice, not a hard rule. Here’s the real deal:

Medicated chick feed contains amprolium, a drug that helps prevent coccidiosis, a common and sometimes deadly gut parasite that chicks are especially vulnerable to. It doesn’t kill the parasite. It helps chicks build a natural tolerance over time by limiting how fast it multiplies.

Medicated feed is a tool, not a magic bullet, and not a failure if you use it. If you’re unsure or stressed? Use it. If you’re confident and have a plan for managing exposure and gut health? You can skip it.

Once they’re fully feathered, they don’t need supplemental heat, and yes, that means they can go outside. For most breeds, that’s around 5 to 6 weeks old. Landraces and hardy types may feather out sooner.

You can start short supervised field trips (think: “chick recess”) as early as 3–4 weeks if the weather’s mild and the setup is safe. But full-time outdoor living? Wait until they’re fully feathered.

Yes, but control the temp. Drafts = chickcicles. Overheating = cooked nuggets.

Still Stuck? Ask Us Anything.

Whether it’s a pasty butt emergency or you're just not sure if that weird chirp is normal, go ahead and ask. We’re real chicken keepers, and we actually answer our messages.