Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

Learn what works. Start with the Education Hub.

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We don’t hatch basic. Neither should you.

Every chick's a critic. Better make it a good one.

Grab the exact gear you need, or get a CluckKit™ and let us do the thinking—either way, your flock wins.

Because mediocre gear doesn't survive the coop—or Clancy.

It’s not just mugs and tees—it’s emotional support merch for people who LOVE landrace chickens.

Treat yourself. The chickens already did.

Chickens with backbone. Keepers with taste.

Beginner Flock Setup (Checklist)

0) Plan Before You Buy

  • Goals: eggs? education? breed preservation? meat? write it down.

  • Local rules: check city/township limits, roosters, setbacks, HOA.

  • Predator map: list what you actually have (raccoon, hawk, dog, weasel, owl).

  • Budget basics: coop, run, bedding, feed, gear, emergency buffer.

  • Timeline: order date, brooder ready date, coop-move date.

Clancy Crowed It: “Stop collecting opinions. Start collecting eggs.”


1) Housing (secure > cute)

  • Coop footprint: baseline 4 sq ft/hen inside; more is better.

  • Run space: baseline 8–10 sq ft/hen (double if you can).

  • Ventilation: high vents for dry, draft-free air; close gaps at perch height.

  • Roosts: 2–4″ wide, edges softened; space so birds can sit shoulder-to-shoulder.

  • Predator-proofing: ½″ hardware cloth, buried apron or skirt, lockable latches (no simple hooks).

  • Shade & drainage: water runs away; sun and wind options.

Move-in rule: Coop is ready before chicks arrive.


2) Gear & Supplies

  • Feeder that reduces waste (height at back level).

  • Waterer on a stand (cleaner beaks, drier bedding).

  • Bedding (pine shavings or chopped straw; no slippery floors).

  • Grit (chick size if giving anything beyond starter).

  • Oyster shell (for layers only; not for chicks).

  • Enrichment (hangable treat, perch, safe foraging area).

  • Cleaning kit (scrub brush, bucket, gloves, poop scraper).

Optional but nice: water additives for heat/shipping days only, brooder plate stand, thermometer as a sanity check.


3) Brooder Setup (for chicks)

  • Heat source: brooder plate preferred (safer, natural sleep).

  • Draft-free box/pen with solid sides the first week.

  • Non-slip floor: paper towel over shavings for 24–48h, then shavings.

  • Water on a stand; shallow base (marbles optional first week).

  • Feeder they can’t tip; swap to larger as they grow.

  • Plate height: low enough to brush backs at start; raise weekly.

  • Behavior check:

    • Huddled/cheeping hard → too cold

    • Panting/avoiding plate → too hot

    • Exploring/quiet naps → just right

If using a lamp: double-secure, no fabric nearby, thermostat or careful height management. Treat it like fire—because it is.


4) Feed & Water (simple wins)

  • Starter feed (18–20% protein) from day 1; crumble is easiest.

  • Medicated vs. non-medicated: your call; follow label/use consistently.

  • Clean water always; refresh daily (more in heat).

  • Treats = 10% max. If you give treats, add chick grit in a tiny dish.

  • Oyster shell only when birds are laying.

Clancy Crowed It: “90% feed, 10% fun. Treats aren’t dinner.”


5) Health & Biosecurity

  • Quarantine new birds for 2–4 weeks (separate air space).

  • Hand-wash / boot change between flocks or after feedstore visits.

  • Daily glance: eyes bright, nostrils clear, stance normal, crop empties by morning.

  • Poop patrol: odd once is fine; trends matter.

  • Heat & cold: shade + water in summer; dry ventilation in winter.


6) Integration & Space

  • If adding to an existing flock: see-but-no-touch for a week, then supervised mingling.

  • Multiple stations for feed/water = fewer fights.

  • Jobs reduce drama: scatter feed to forage, hang a treat, add a low perch.


7) Week-by-Week Quick Plan

2 weeks before arrival

  • Coop/run secure; brooder staged; gear checked.

Arrival week

  • Heat plate on; water + feed set; chicks under supervision first hours.

  • Show chicks the waterer (dip beaks gently once).

Weeks 1–2

  • Raise plate slightly each week; enlarge brooder space.

  • Spot-clean daily; full change as needed.

Weeks 3–4

  • Short supervised “field trips” in a safe pen on warm days.

  • Begin gentle handling daily for calm adults later.

Weeks 5–6

  • Transition to grower feed if you use it; otherwise continue starter until point-of-lay.

  • Coop move on a mild, dry day when fully feathered and brooder heat isn’t needed.

Weeks 8–12

  • Full outdoor routine; add enrichment; monitor pecking order.

  • Expect point-of-lay around 22–28 weeks (season/line dependent).


Shopping Shortlist (so you don’t overbuy)

  • Brooder plate + stand

  • Chick feeder & waterer + stands

  • Bedding + trash bags

  • Starter feed (enough for 4–6 weeks)

  • Chick grit (tiny bag)

  • Scraper/brush, gloves

  • Hardware cloth + latches (if finishing a coop/run)

When you’re ready: CluckKits™ bundle the “works every time” versions so you don’t guess.


Common “Do I need…?” Answers

  • Heat lamp? Only if you must. Plates are safer.

  • Electrolytes daily? No. Save for heat/shipping days.

  • Oyster shell for chicks? Never.

  • Tons of supplements? Nope. Clean water + complete feed does most of the job.

  • Sand for chicks? Skip it. Use proper chick grit if giving treats.


Quick Troubleshooting

  • Pasty butt: warm water, gentle clean, dab dry; check brooder heat.

  • Listless chick: warm, quiet, access to water; observe; reduce stressors.

  • Bullying: more space, add a second feeder/waterer, provide a hide, remove aggressor briefly if blood drawn.