There’s nothing quite like the anticipation of hatch day—until you realize your incubator is full of unhatched eggs. 😩 Whether you’re a first-time hatcher or a seasoned pro, hatching failures happen. But why? And more importantly, how can you prevent them next time?
In this guide, we’ll break down common reasons why eggs don’t hatch, how to troubleshoot what went wrong, and ways to improve your hatch rates in the future.
1. Were the Eggs Fertile to Begin With?
Before you blame the incubator, let’s start at square one: Were your eggs actually fertile?
🚨 Signs of an Infertile Egg (Non-Shipped Eggs):
- Clear when candled at day 7+ (no blood vessels or dark spots).
- No development or veining at all after 10+ days.
🚨 BUT WAIT! If the eggs were shipped…
If you candled your shipped eggs and saw nothing, that doesn’t automatically mean they were infertile. The rough handling, temperature fluctuations, and pressure changes during shipping can damage the embryo before it even starts growing, making the egg appear infertile when it actually wasn’t.
💡 How to Tell the Difference:
- For non-shipped eggs: If multiple eggs show no development, you may have a fertility issue (or an incubation problem).
- For shipped eggs: Even a total loss doesn’t necessarily mean fertility was the issue—shipping damage can prevent perfectly good eggs from developing.
- The only way to confirm fertility? Cracking open an unincubated egg and checking for a blastoderm (bullseye)—but realistically, who wants to risk cracking open a potential chick?
✅ Best Practices:
- Expect a lower hatch rate with shipped eggs due to transport stress.
- Candle at days 7-10 to check for development, but don’t assume “clear” means infertile.
- For home-collected eggs, you can crack a few fresh ones before setting to confirm fertility.
2. Early Embryo Death (First Week Failures)
Sometimes, an embryo starts developing but dies early on. This is especially common in shipped eggs, where rough handling can damage the delicate embryo before it even starts growing.
🚨 Signs of Early Death:
- A visible blood ring when candling.
- Embryo stopped developing before day 7.
Possible Causes:
✅ Temperature or humidity too high/low.
✅ Poor egg handling (shipped eggs are more prone to detached air cells).
✅ Bacterial contamination from dirty hands or an unclean incubator.
💡 How to Fix It:
- Let shipped eggs rest for 24 hours before incubating.
- Always wash hands before handling eggs, and keep your incubator sanitized.
3. Temperature & Humidity Mishaps
Incorrect temperature and humidity are the #1 killers of hatching eggs. A few degrees off can mean the difference between fluffy chicks and a failed hatch.
🚨 Signs of Temperature Issues:
- Early hatches (before day 20) – Can indicate temps were slightly too high, but some breeds naturally hatch early (e.g., Swedish Flower Hens).
- Late or no hatches (day 22-23+) – May suggest temps were too low or inconsistent.
- Deformed or weak chicks – Often caused by temperature fluctuations during incubation.
🚨 Signs of Humidity Issues:
- “Shrink-wrapped” chicks (sticky, dry membranes) = Humidity too low.
- “Drowned” chicks (swollen, mushy) = Humidity too high.
💡 How to Fix It:
✅ Use two thermometers and hygrometers—incubator readings aren’t always accurate.
✅ Keep humidity lower at first (40-50%) and increase to 65-75% during lockdown.
✅ If you consistently get early hatches, but chicks are healthy, it may just be a breed trait!
4. Improper Egg Turning
Chicks need movement! If eggs aren’t turned regularly, the embryo can stick to the shell membrane and stop developing.
🚨 Signs of Turning Issues:
- Chicks malpositioned or struggling to hatch.
- Embryo stuck to one side of the shell.
💡 How to Fix It:
✅ Turn eggs 3-5 times a day or use an automatic turner.
✅ Stop turning at day 18 to let the chick position itself for hatching.
5. Late-Term Death or Pipped But Not Hatched
🚨 Possible Causes:
✅ Humidity Too Low During Lockdown – Can cause chicks to become “shrink-wrapped,” making it impossible for them to break free.
✅ Humidity Too High During Incubation – Can lead to excess fluid in the egg, causing chicks to drown before hatching due to improperly developed air cells.
💡 How to Fix It:
✅ Keep humidity balanced throughout incubation (40-50% until lockdown, then increase to 65-75%).
✅ If you consistently see late-term deaths, double-check your incubator’s humidity calibration—some models run higher than their reading suggests.
6. Assisted Hatching: When to Help & When to Wait
🚨 When to Assist:
- The chick pipped over 24 hours ago but hasn’t made progress.
- The chick is externally pipped but struggling to breathe or appears stuck.
⚠ Ramifications of Helping Too Early:
- Bleeding & Death – If the chick hasn’t fully absorbed its yolk, breaking the shell too soon can rupture blood vessels, causing fatal bleeding.
- Yolk Sac Not Fully Absorbed – Can lead to serious complications like infection or failure to thrive.
💡 What to Do if a Chick is Shrink-Wrapped:
✅ Increase humidity to 75%+ and do not open the incubator unless absolutely necessary.
✅ Dab the membrane with a warm, damp cotton swab or cloth to soften it.
✅ Assist slowly (if needed)—only remove small pieces of shell at a time.
Final Thoughts: Don’t Give Up!
Even experienced hatchers have failed hatches. The key is to learn from each experience, fine-tune your setup, and make adjustments for next time.
🔥 Want better hatches? Check out our guide to incubating shipped eggs for expert tips!
